L'Isola - ruled for years by the malavita of Milan and well known for being the birthplace of Berlusconi and directly opposite home until recently to the Communist Party headquarters - is undergoing a transformation. It has gone from being on the wrong side of the tracks, (from Corso Como you have to cross Garibaldi Station trains, platforms and all to get into the area), to being the sweetheart of developers with an eye for the main chance. Witness two rather unattractive Bosco Verticale buildings rising up out of nowhere from where the beautiful old Stecca building sat for years or the mega-galactic Regional Headquarters from which the sun glints and gleams its political reflection on us all. The Metro 5 line may or may not finally be about to open its doors and there is still nowhere to park.
The upside of all this frenetic pioneering is that our area is now alive with new, small entrepreneurial activities alongside old timers such as the Blue Note and the Café Nord Est, both of which have long been the haunt of the trendgenners of Milan. A plethora of new bars and restaurants have sprung up ready to cater to office lunchers and night birds alike.
One of these is Blu - an all day bar and restaurant which we have walked past in a disinterested way since it opened. This morning we ventured in on a whim and were surprised by the buzzing, carefree atmosphere and chatter which greeted us, not to mention the shock of seeing our hermit neighbours sipping coffee and munching brioche. Carefully choosing a table a good distance away from them we had time to survey our surroundings. Blu is definitely blue and not just any blue but a strong Klein Blue throughout. Rustic wooden tables contrast with white plastic chairs and there is some 'interesting' art on the walls as well as suitably squashy sofas which can be shared.
The aim of the owners was to create a place where people could come at all hours rather like an English pub. Happily Blu is nothing like an old smokey, slightly grimy English pub being full of young families, and couples reading the newspaper and the large windows all along the street front let in lots of light even on a typical Milanese grey, foggy autumnal day.
Service is directly from the bar for breakfast. Our coffee was delicious and the brioche fresh and a good amount of apricot jam. You can also eat lunch or dinner here for around 25 euro a head, although we have not eaten these as yet.
The menu is handwritten in blue school books - grease marks and all - and the food seems to veer in a hearty, home cooked direction with dishes such as Risotto alla Milanese made with crunchy vegetables and toasted bone marrow or Bucatini "Benedetto Cavalieri" pasta served with a sauce of four delicious cheeses - Blu di Pecora, Casatina di Bufala, Latteria and Grattata di Pecorino Romano Nero - listed today. The owners are on hand to advise you on the wine or you can choose by the glass or a bottle using a pack of neapolitan playing cards - pick a card and turn it over to reveal your tipple. Well worth a visit.
DOVE COME QUANDO
BLU - bar trattoria
Via Carmagnola 5
20159 Milano
tel. +39.331.822.4002
www.blumilano.net
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