Travelling from France to Italy by car through Mont Blanc? Take a rustic and satisfying break on the Italian side at the Maison de Filippo in Entreves which is situated just above Courmayeur A small, simple but very well known trattoria overlooking the Mer de Glace that boasts a willing, smiley staff and a small garden polka dotted by tables covered in standard issue of red and white check cloths.
Step inside and, should there be any doubt, it is clear you are in mountain territory. Wooden beams, copper pans, cow bells and harvest fruits are here in abundance. Upstairs the windows filter a clear, grey light onto the white tables that contrasts with dark wood creating a sense of peace.
The menu is quite varied but not cheap. Despite it being a boiling hot July we had made the pilgrimage for a much remembered and discussed pudding of warm chestnuts served with mountain peaks of fresh cream.
At mid-day it felt, however, too decadent to eat just pudding and so we lighted on two antipasti of red peppers in the garlicky bagna cauda and small onions cooked in vinegar and mixed with saltanas, with plain pasta for the Beetle, quickly followed by the Fondue Bourguignonne - meat fondue with beef, sausages and apple, accompanied by the usual sauces.
We sat outside and benefitted from a fresh wind missing from lower altitudes and felt at peace with the world, no more so than we we tucked into the piece de resistance. Our meal came to euro 90.00 which we felt was too expensive for what we had eaten, but we had such a relaxing and enjoyable time and the proust like pudding was so good that we are glad we went.
DOVE COME QUANDO
La Maison de Filippo Via Passerin d'Entreves, 7 Frazione Entrèves Courmayeur (AO) tel +39 0165 869797 www.lamaison.com
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