The freedom of the road, and going where the wind takes you sounded like a good idea at the time, and of course we had an idea of where we wanted to reach in France on the first night, and a couple of places to try. But in the end the sheer size of the country defeated us and we ended up on the outskirts of Troyes, a medieval town on the southern edge of Champagne once more driving through the dimming light with rumbling tums. Luck struck however and we turned in through the gates of a beautiful domaine where our dapper French host stood waiting to greet us, pink shirt and all.
The Domaine de la Creuse dates back to 1800s and can guest up to approximately eight people in its two rooms and three suites, all with bathrooms. The overall look and feel is every bit as dapper as its owner, pleasing to the eye in an almost shabby but too carefully chic, beige and white way. The bathroom was fantastic, which is inevitable when you are in too much of a rush for a real soak, and our room was comfortable and well decorated. However, it lacked a sense of personality and everything felt just done, lacking the natural charm and individuality of the Aupres De L'Eglise (see blog entry 28th June).
On the phone we had been quoted Euro. 110 for the room for the night with breakfast, but ended up paying Euro 170 - because we had an unasked for extra room for The Beetle. Nor were we fed on-site on our arrival - a piece of bread and cheese would have been sufficent or an apple, necessitating a drive back into Troyes at 10.30pm to face indifferent Gaellic shrugs accompanied by just closing doors, until we happened upon a small corner pizza café with an owner that took one look at our drooping troop and welcomed us in with open, understanding arms. After an obligatory glass of restorative Champagne, we sat round our formica table and eat a delicious, hot supper and pizza surprisingly up to exacting Italian standards.
Back at the Domaine we slept well and had a rather formal breakfast served by the man himself in an all white breakfast room which leads off his house - a fact not understood by some who went walk about in a curious, journalistic manner causing much pursing of lips. Fresh orange juice, croissant with fig and greengage jam and small pots of home made natural yoghurt were reluctantly (at this point) put on the table and a slightly huffy retreat was made. Was that a sigh of relief we heard or we made as our car drove back up the drive and through the gates soutward bound to Milan?
WHERE WHEN HOW
Domaine de la Creuse
D444 10800
Moussex
Tel. +33(0) 3 25417401
www.domainedelacreuse.com
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